The Maya Altar at San Gervasio

SAN GERVASIO MAYAN RUINS

The Mayan archeological site of San Gervasio has an unusually long history, beginning sometime around 100 BC and continuing as late as the 16th century. Located on Cozumel Island, the largest island in the Mexican Caribbean, it was still a functioning religious site at the time the Spaniards arrived in the 16th century.

In the heart of the island, in a lush jungle populated with brilliantly colored iguanas and lush flowers and foliage, one can see why no one ever wanted to abandon this beautiful place.San Gervasio was a site dedicated to the Mayan goddess Ixchel (“She of the Rainbows”), deity of midwifery, fertility, medicine and weaving. Many women from the mainland Mayan settlements made the pilgrimage here to Ixchel´s shrine at some point in their lifetime. A graceful arch protects an altar on a sacbe (ancient road) leading into the ceremonial center. Many statues to Ixchel were found here and are still being discovered at the 40+ temples on the island. It is believed that a large ceramic image of Ixchel delivered oracles spoken by a hidden priestess for pilgrims with questions.

Although the archaeological site at San Gervasio has not had a lot of restoration, there are numerous structures and the beautiful natural setting makes a visit there worthwhile. One of the most interesting buildings is the Temple of the Hands. Inside, numerous small red hand prints of unknown significance are painted on the wall, leading more than one tourist to speculate that perhaps this was a day-care center for pilgrim moms!The Mayan ruins at San Gervasio are a welcome retreat for those visiting the busy island of Cozumel. Take time to enjoy San Gervasio and the peaceful setting of this fertile jungle shrine dedicated to the Maya goddess Ixchel.

Historically the most important site, Caracol ('the snail' in Spanish), is located in western Belize, near the border with Guatemala and within the Chiquibul Forest Reserve. Caracol was the center of one of the largest Maya kingdoms and today contains the extant remains of thousands of structures. The city was an important player in the Classic period political struggles of the southern Maya lowlands, and is known for defeating and subjugating Tikal (while allied with Calakmul, located in Campeche, Mexico).

The site of Cerros, located on Corozal Bay in northern Belize, is notable as one of the earliest Maya sites, reaching its apogee during the Late Preclassic on Corozal Bay, and for the presence of an E-Group, a unique structural complex found in Maya architecture.

Lamanai, located on the New River in Orange Walk District, is known for being the longest continually-occupied site in Mesoamerica. The initial settlement of Lamanai occurred during the Early Preclassic, and it was continuously occupied up to and through the colonization of the area. During the Spanish conquest of Yucatán, the conquistadores established a Roman Catholic church at Lamanai, but a revolt by the native Maya drove them away. The extant remains of the church are still standing today.

The following is a list of other archaeological sites located within Belize:

Nephites and Lamanites, or Maya?

Have you ever heard of the Nephites or Lamanites? If you are a Mormon, you have. If you are not a Mormon, you probably know them by their real name, the Maya. Here is the story of how the names became linked:

In 1841, an American adventurer named John Lloyd Stephens and a British artist named Frederick Catherwood stayed at the ruins of Tulum for over a week during their tour of Yucatán. Although the pair found the ruins covered in vines and trees, they also discovered signs of recent rituals and offerings left behind by the Maya in one of the buildings. Stephens later wrote a book about the trip, Incidents of Travel in Yucatán, and published it in 1843. Engravings of drawings made by Catherwood at Tulum were included in the book. It was a run-away best-seller.

A copy of Stephens very popular book was sent by a Mormon named John Bernhisel to the Latter Day Saint (LDS) Prophet Joseph Smith, who wrote a review of it. Mentions of this review appeared in the September 15, and the October 1, 1842 volumes of the official LDS publication Times and Seasons. In the publication, Smith wrote of Stephens’ book: “Of all the histories that have been written pertaining to the antiquities of this country it is the most correct, luminous and comprehensive, and it supports the testimony of the Book of Mormon.”

The rendering of El Castillo done by Catherwood in 1841 that appeared in Stevens’ book Incidents of Travel in Yucatán

As Smith studied Incidents of Travel in Yucatán more and more, he began to read into it the proof he was looking for namely that Jesus Christ (embodied as the Postclassic Maya god Kukulcán) once lived in Yucatán. Smith spoke often of Stevens’ book (and of his earlier book, Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatán) to other LDS members, who also were captivated by it. In 1849, five years after Smith was killed by a mob as he awaited trial in a Carthage, Illinois jail on charges of riot and treason, LDS leader Orson Pratt wrote another review of the book in the Millennial Star. “…the Book of Mormon gives us the names and locations of great numbers of cities in the very region where Catherwood and Stephens afterwards discovered them. The Book of Mormon says that in the 367th day after Christ, the Lamanites, the forefathers of the American Indians, took possession of the city of Desolation, which was in Central America, near to or in Yucatán… the Nephites being the nation who inhabited the cities of Yucatán.” The LDS church over the next century fielded several expeditions to Yucatán searching for ruins that would match “The city Bountiful of the Book of Mormon,” a site they described as “…an important walled city and military center of the first century B. C. and the place of the resurrected Christ appeared to the surviving Nephites following the cataclysm incident to his crucifixion, a location of key importance in the Book of Mormon geography.”

The Mormons’ search for proof of a link between the mythological Nephite walled city and the Maya site of Tulum has led to the establishment of a cottage industry dedicated to promoting this connection on websites and printed pamphlets. On many of these websites you can book tours to Tulum (and other Maya sites) where the Mormon guide will point out the “evidence” that shows the Maya were actually the Nephite people of the Book of Mormon.

One such piece of evidence these Mormon guides often point out are the three niches that adorn the façade of the room atop El Castillo in Tulum. The central niche holds a plaster representation of the Descending God (sometimes incorrectly called the Diving God), a late Postclassic aspect of the god Kukulcán embodied as the planet Venus. He is shown here in the “descending” aspect that the Maya employed to illustrate his “coming down from heaven,” the time of the year that Venus first appears as the morning star. This Tulum version of Descending God is identical to other late Postclassic depictions of the god found in Mayapán, Coba, and Sayil. 1930s Archaeologist Ralph Roys had his own opinion, which associates this plaster image with Muzen Cab, the Bee God, based mainly on the similarity between the depictions of Xux ek (Wasp Star) and Muzen Cab (Bee God).

The Postclassic Descending God appearing as Xux Ek, the Wasp Star

The Maya Bee Deity, Muzen Cab

Many guides and books now repeat Roy’s 1930s theory as gospel. However, Bishop Landa recorded in his 1566 book, Relaciónes de las cosas de Yucatán, that the Maya believed that after Kukulkán established Mayapán, he returned to his own land and then “went up to heaven as a god and became the planet Venus.” Previously, the Classic Period Maya god we now call “God I” (called Tzontemoc by the Aztecs) was the one associated with Venus, but he was replaced by the Postclassic Maya with this new feathered-serpent god, Kukulkán, especially in the Itzá cities of Chichen Itzá, Tulum, Coba, and Mayapán.

In Mayapán, there is a wall connected to Kukulkán’s temple that bears a series of murals depicting two men carrying banners, flanking an image of the “Descending God.” More images of this “Descending God” as Xux Ek appear in the Dresden Codex, where the head of the god is drawn as “ek,” the glyph for “star.” Further, when one considers that the Maya festival of Chic Kaban, honoring Kukulkán, was celebrated on the first appearance of Venus and the fact that El Castillo in Tulum was built to contain alignment elements that coincide with this celestial event, identifying the Descending God with Kukulkán is much more reasonable than connecting him with the Maya Bee God, simply because the two depictions have wings.

Mormon tour guides, however, believe this plaster image is actually a representation of Jesus Christ when he was supposed to have visited the New World after his resurrection. They also tell the tourists in their tour that the northern niche holds an image of God the Father and, since there is nothing left in the empty southern niche, they say it represents the invisible Holy Ghost.

The guides to these tours closely toe the Mormon line as far relating the history of Tulum so that it dovetails with Mormon mythology. One of the more grievous examples of the twisting of the true history of the site to fit LDS theology is the Mormon claim that Tulum was an important, thriving walled city 367 days after the crucifixion of Jesus, which has been customarily dated to around 2,000 years ago. Archaeological evidence proves that Tulum was not in existence as a city and the wall was not built until around 1200 AD. Another falsehood that is touted by the LDS guides is that their prophet Joseph Smith wrote that the name of the walled city of the Nephites was called Zama, the name of Tulum in Postclassic Mayan. In reality, that claim only exists on websites and popular LDS books and never appeared in any Mormon-related publication until the late twentieth-century. Smith himself never penned the name Zama at any point in his life.

The LDS guides will also claim that the image of “the descending god” can only be found in Tulum. In truth, the image appears at many Yucatecan Maya Postclassic sites, such as Coba, Sayil, and Mayapán, as well as the Dresden Codex.

Many other such garbled interpretations of the history of Yucatán are made by the LDS guides to make it conform to the Book of Mormon, but the truth is, Tulum was simply a Postclassic Maya city and had nothing to do with the mythological Nephites or Lamanites.

Cozumel – The Island of Ancient Mayan Civilizations and Natural Splendor

Juanita Rodriguez 01-22-2016

The island of Cozumel, once a safe harbor for infamous pirates, is a nature lover’s paradise. Located an hour by ferry from Playa del Carmen, this laid-back city is surrounded by part of the Mesoamerican Reef, the second largest barrier reef in the world. For this reason, it has attracted the most seasoned globe-trotting divers and has become a prominent port of call for cruise ships.

Originally settled approximately 2000 years ago by Mayans, Cozumel was a mecca for Mayan women in particular. At least once in their lifetimes, they would make the treacherous journey from the mainland in wooden canoes to worship Ix Chel, the goddess of fertility, medicine, midwifery and weaving. Remnants of her altar still stand today in the archeological site of San Gervasio, located in the center of the island.

In the early 1500’s, Cozumel was a bustling urban area with around 40,000 inhabitants. In 1519, the Spanish conqueror, Hernan Cortes came upon the island and brought with him massive destruction and small pox. The population dwindled to a meager 30 people, leaving the ancient Mayan civilization in ruins. By 1600, these remaining inhabitants fled, leaving the island deserted until the 17th century, when it was discovered by pirates.

The notorious Henry Morgan and his sordid crew used the island as a safe haven and were said to have stashed away their looted treasures in and around the lagoon in the island’s centre. For the most part, the island remained unoccupied until 1847. At this time, a few families escaping the Spanish retaliation caused by the Maya uprising during the Caste War, came to reside there.

Today, the enterprising city boasts a population of over 100,000 residents and has as much history as natural beauty to offer to its visitors. It was one especially sunny Saturday afternoon that our family decided to explore the allure of this splendid sanctuary. Upon arriving in Cozumel, we opted to rent an open-top jeep and drive the scenic road which runs alongside the island’s coastline.

With the wind whipping our hair into a frenzied mess, we delighted in the infused Mexican/Caribbean vibe as we embarked on our whimsical joyride. The turquoise sea beckoned us, so we decided to stop for dip and a cool cocktail at a lively beachside eatery. The bartenders served up 2 feet tall icy margaritas. Whistles were blowing, the music was pulsing and the staff seemed to be having as much fun as the patrons! After sampling the fresh ceviche and discovering shells and dried coral, (or mini slingshots as my son referred to them) along the shallow shore, we continued on our coastal journey.

Stopping to walk through the sacred ruin site where ancient Mayans had once roamed was a moving experience. The structures that remain today continue to amaze onlookers with their fascinating markings and craftsmanship. After viewing the remnants, one is certainly able to gain a better sense of the customs and beliefs of the indigenous society that had once called this mystical region home.

The next leg of our adventure led us to the rugged eastern shoreline. The views of the crashing waves against the rocky coast made for a picture perfect photo op. While a couple of us posed for the camera, the others stumbled upon a man under a hut out in the middle of nowhere. Shaded by the thatched roof of his palapa, this jolly fellow sang while weaving palm leaves into grasshoppers and safari hats. He offered us some chilled, virgin pina coladas made with fresh coconut water and served in coconut shells. We lazed in the hammocks behind the hut and sipped on the refreshing concoctions. As we walked back to the jeep, our jovial friend blew in his concha shell and bellowed to us a fond farewell.

A magical trip filled with sublime beauty, enriching cultural aspects and fresh pina coladas! Just another day in paradise…

The Maya deity Ixchel was associated with fertility, health, vegetation, and water. It was also known as Ixchebelyax, Ix Hunic, and Ix Huinieta, plus having several representations such as the moon phases and cycles.

The ancient Maya considered the Caribbean Sea a prominent place since it was a source for food and a way to travel, plus pointing the entrance to Xibalbá or Maya underworld (just as the cenotes). The Sacred Mayan Journey is a representation of the transition beyond, within their cosmogeny.

Southern Lowlands, Modern-Day: Guatemala

Piedras Negras is located along the eastern banks of the Usumacinta River. [2] The settlement is oriented around plazas, without a grid system. [2] The polity is built into a series of hills, offering a natural defensive structure, and is currently heavily forested.

The name Piedras Negras means "black stones" in Spanish. Its name in the language of the Classic Maya has been read in Maya inscriptions as Yo'k'ib' ( [ˈjoʔkʼib] ), meaning "great gateway" or "entrance", [3] considered a possible reference to a large and now dry sinkhole nearby. [4] It may also be a reference to its location as a prominent intermediary along the trade routes leading to the Tabasco floodplain. [1] Some authors think that the name is Paw Stone, but is more likely to be the name of the founder as hieroglyphs on Throne 1 and altar 4 show.

Piedras Negras had been populated since the 7th century BC. Its population seems to have peaked twice. The first population peak happened in the Late Preclassic period, around 200 BC, and was followed by a decline. [5] The second population peak of Piedras Negras happened in the Late Classic period, around the second half of the 8th century, during which the maximum population of the principal settlement is estimated to have been around 2,600. At the same time, Piedras Negras was also the largest polity in this region with a total population estimated to be around 50,000. [2]

Piedras Negras was an independent city-state for most of the Early and Late Classic periods, although it was sometimes in alliance with other states of the region and may have paid tribute to others at times. It had an alliance with Yaxchilan, in what is now Chiapas, Mexico, some 40 km up the Usumacinta River. Ceramics show the site was occupied from the mid-7th century BC to 850 AD. Its most impressive period of sculpture and architecture dated from about 608 through 810, although there is some evidence that Piedras Negras was already a city of some importance since 400 AD.

Panel 12 of Piedras Negras shows three neighboring rulers as captives of Ruler C. One of the captives might be the ninth king of Yaxchilan, Joy B'alam (also known as Knot-Eye Jaguar I), who continued to reign after the panel was made. As subservient rulers were often depicted as bound captives even while continuing to rule their own kingdoms, the panel suggests that Piedras Negras may have established its authority over the middle Usumacinta drainage in about 9.4.0.0.0 (514 AD). [6] [7]

The artistry of the sculpture of the Late Classic period of Piedras Negras is considered particularly fine. The site has two ball courts and several plazas there are vaulted palaces and temple pyramids, including one that is connected to one of the many caves in the site. Along the banks of the river is a large boulder with the emblem glyph of Yo’ki’b carved on it, facing skyward.

A unique feature of the monuments at Piedras Negras is the frequent occurrence of the so-called "artists' signatures". Individual artists have been identified by the use of recurring glyphs on stelae and other reliefs.

Ruler 7 (reigned 781-808?) of Piedras Negras was captured by K'inich Tatbu Skull IV of Yaxchilan. This event was recorded on the lintel 10 of Yaxchilan. [8] Piedras Negras might have been abandoned within several years after this event. [9]

Before the site was abandoned, some monuments were deliberately damaged, including images and glyphs of rulers defaced, while other were left intact, suggesting a revolt or conquest by people literate in Maya writing.

Late Preclassic/Early Classic Rulers Edit

Relatively little is known of the Late Preclassic/Early Classic rulers, but excavations of the West Group Plaza found masonry dating to the Early Classic, and altar 1 is dedicated to Ruler A, dating to AD 297.

K'an Ahk I: [10] AD 297- ?, induction Long Count Date: 8.13.0.0.0 [1]

K'an Ahk II: [10] AD ca 460-ca 478

Yat Ahk I (or Turtle Tooth): 510-514. [1] Panel 2 mentions him, and states that Turtle Tooth had an overlord at an unknown cite. [11] Ancient Maya name unknown, but some scholars believe his name to be Yah Ahk 1 [12]

Ruler C: 514-53, induction Long Count Date: 9.4.0.0.0. [1] Lintel 12 depicts Ruler C receiving 4 captives, including Knot-eye Jaguar of Yaxchilan. [1] Stela 30, long count 9.5.0.0.0 (AD 534), is possibly a celebration of a k'atun ending. [1] Stela 29, long count 9.5.5.0.0 (AD 539), is in celebration of a hotun (a five-year period)ending during Ruler C's reign. [1] Both would have been causes of celebration in antiquity.

Late Classic Rulers Edit

K’inich Yo’nal Ahk I: 603-639, induction long count: 9.8.10.6.16. [1] K’inich Yo’nal Ahk I ran a series of military conquests throughout the Usumacinta area, and defeated Palenque in AD 628, taking captive Ch’ok Balum, one of Palenque's lords. [2] Stela 25 commemorates his accession. [1] After K’inich Yo’nal Ahk I's accession, he razed the Early Classic monuments and some of the buildings, in an effort to discredit the symbols of earlier kings, and, additionally, began construction and renovating older architecture in the South Group to establish his dynasty and lineage. [1]

Itzam K'an Ahk I: 639-686, induction Long Count: 9.10.6.5.9. [1] The son of K’inich Yo’nal Ahk I, Ruler 2 continued his father's military conquests, and in 662, was victorious over Santa Elena, which is commemorated in Stela 35. [1] Panel 15 celebrates the capture of an unknown polity and an unknown captive, which was issued by Ruler 2's son after his death. [11] This act of commissioning an artist to memorial one's predecessor is not rare and can be seen again in Ruler 2's commission of Panel 2 which celebrates the k’atun anniversary of the death of K’inich Yo’nal Ahk I. It also recalls Turtle Tooth's receiving of 6 captives after battle and mentions his unknown overlord at another site. Later in his reign two stelae were placed in the West Group, whereas early stelae were raised in South Group. [1]

Stelae: 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39

K’inich Yo’nal Ahk II: 687-729, ascension long count: 9.12.14.13.1. [1] All eight of his stelae, placed in West Group, indicating that K’inich Yo’nal Ahk II abandoned the South Group which had been used by his ancestor's. [1] The son of Ruler 2, K’inich Yo’nal Ahk II is most known for his marriage alliance and military defense. He married Lady K’atun Ajaw from Namaan in AD 686. [1] While the site of Namaan is currently unidentified, this marriage shows that Piedras Negras and Namaan were important to one other, and both would have benefited from the marriage. While Ahk II suffered a few military losses, notably the loss of La Mar and in 725 the capture of one of his sajal (a lesser lord) by Palenque, the ruler was victorious over Yaxchilan in 727, capturing a sajal, as commemorated in Stela 8. [1] K’inich Yo’nal Ahk II's tomb has been identified as Burial 5, under Patio 1 in front of J-3. [1]

Itzam K'an Ahk II: 729-757, induction long count: 9.14.18.3.13. [1] Ascension Stela: Stela 11. Son of K’inich Yo’nal Ahk II. Most of his stelae were in West Group. Using Panel 3, issued by Ruler 7, was placed in front of O-13, in the East Group. Excavated in 1997 by Héctor Escobedo and Tomás Barrientos, a royal interment, Burial 13, was found. [1] The interment was similar to that of Burial 5, with the exception that it had been reentered later, indicated by absent or burned bones. Tomb reentry was culturally significant to the Maya, and indicates that Ruler 4 was well respected both in life and in death. [2]

Yo’nal Ahk III: 758-767, induction long count: 9.16.6.17.1. [1] Son of Ruler 4, ascension stela: Stela 14. Stelae were placed in the East Group, indicating a move from the South and West Groups previously used by rulers. [2]

Ha’ K’in Xook: 767-780, induction long count: 9.16.16.0.4. [1] Accession stela: Stela 23. Brother of Yo’nal Ahk III, son of Ruler 4, abdicated in 780, according to Throne 1. [11]

K'inich Yat Ahk II: 781-808, induction long count: 9.17.10.9.4. [1] Son of Ruler 4, brother of Yo’nal Ahk III and Ha’ K’in Xook, ruler 7 continued to use the East Group, specifically O-13, as the area for his stelae to be placed. [1] In 785, he commissioned Throne 1, placing it in str. J-6, one of the finest pieces of sculpture from Piedras Negras. [1] Ruler 7 engaged in numerous military conquests, including the defeat of Santa Elena in 787 and wars with Pomoná. Stela 12 depicts Ruler 7 with La Mar Ajaw, Parrot Chaak, sitting in judgement over captives from Pomoná, indicting a close military allegiance between the two. [1] Ruler 7's campaigns ended in 808 when he was captured by K’inich Tatb’u Skull III, ruler of Yaxchilan, depicted in Lintel 10. [11]

Decline of Piedras Negras Edit

Ruler 7 is the last known of king of Piedras Negras. With his capture, the dynasty which had governed over Piedras Negras since AD 603 effectively ended. However, even before his capture, the polity seemed to be in decline. When Throne 1 was unearthed in 1930, it had been shattered. After additional excavations in the 1990s, it became evident that there were other signs of burning and destruction throughout the site, but most notably at the royal palace. The internal feuding between Piedras Negras and Yaxchilán, beginning in the fifth century AD, played a large role in the instability of the polity. The conflict between the two was not limited to fighting and warfare the two polities both are known for their artistic output which offered an additional way in which to validate and enforce the polity's respective power. Though monument construction and dedication did not continue into the ninth century, occupation of the site itself did. The site was abandoned by AD 930. [13] It is not possible to fully ascertain whether limited occupation continued as no archaeological evidence has yet been unearthed for occupation continuing after AD 930.

Using the abundant number of stelae recovered from Piedras Negras, Tatiana Proskouriakoff revolutionized current understanding of Maya hieroglyphs. Proskouriakoff realized that stelae which depicted a person within a niche and the glyphic texts on them were in fact the long count recounting important events in the life of a ruler, such as their date of birth and accession to the throne. [1] Proskouriakoff's contribution to Mayan epigraphy changed the idea of the ancient Maya from a people of peace and cosmology to a people actively participating and recording political and social histories.

Panel 12 [14]

Stelae 25, 26, 31 [16][1]
R-5 Pyramid [16]

Stelae 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39 [18][17]
Panels 2, 4, 7 [18][17]
Throne 2 [18][17]

Stelae 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 [1][19]
J-5 Pyramid courtyard [1][19]
Altar 1 [1][19]
Panel 15 [1]

Stelae 9, 10, 11, 22, 40 [1][21]
O-13 Pyramid [1][21]
Altar 2 [1][21]

Stelae 14, 16 [1][23]

Stelae 13, 18, 23 [1][23]

Stelae 12, 15 [1][24]
Altar 4 [1][24]
Panel 1?, 3 [1][24]
Throne 1 [1][24]

The site was first explored, mapped, and its monuments photographed by Teoberto Maler at the end of the 19th century.

An archeological project at Piedras Negras was conducted by the University of Pennsylvania from 1931 to 1939 under the direction of J. Alden Mason and Linton Satterthwaite. Further archaeological work here was conducted from 1997 to 2000, directed by Stephen Houston of Brigham Young University and Hector Escobedo of the Universidad del Valle de Guatemala, with permission from the Instituto de Antropología e Historia de Guatemala (IDAEH).

Mayanist Tatiana Proskouriakoff was the first to decipher the names and dates of a Maya dynasty from her work with the monuments at this site, a breakthrough in the decipherment of the Maya Script. Prouskourikoff was buried here in Group F after her death in 1985.

In 2002 the World Monuments Fund earmarked 100,000 United States dollars for the conservation of Piedras Negras. It is today part of Guatemala's Sierra del Lacandón national park.

Royal Caribbean Cruises: Mayan Ruins at San Gervasio

I’m a sucker for history. I always have been. Not in a “Can’t repeat the past? Why of course you can” sort of Great Gatsby way. I’m more of a let’s learn all about the past so that we can actually learn from it and also keep a portion of it alive sort of girl. When I was a kid and we went to DC, I was mesmerized by Ford’s Theater and later Gettysburg, even though I am profoundly anti-violence and anti-war. Even as an adult when I found myself visiting a friend in DC and realized he lived a few blocks from Ford’s Theater, I dragged my best friend who was visiting with me over for a tour.

So when we were considering shore excursions on our most recent Royal Caribbean Cruise, I really wanted to visit Mayan ruins during our time in Cozumel. I visited different Mayan ruins on my honeymoon cruise and found them beautiful and fascinating. When I found out that we could explore the ones at San Gervasio on this trip, I definitely wanted my kids to be able to see them. It didn’t hurt that the trip to the ruins was combined with a stop at the Mayan Cacao Company.

We got off the ship and headed down to find our guide. His name was Edwin and he was spectacular! Since not only lives in Cozumel but also works in the archeology department at one of the colleges, he was full of great information. He was also funny and just so nice! We all loved him, which was good since we spent about 3 hours with him.

To get to the ruins we went on a scenic drive which took about 20 minutes. I’m not sure if it was the most direct path to get there, but it did allow Edwin to tell us quite a bit about life in Cozumel. I had no idea that basically everything in Cozumel has to be shipped in from the mainland and that tourism is basically the only industry on the island. I was also amazed that such a small island (you can drive from tip to tail in about an hour) has three universities/colleges. Even more amazing is how much of the island is uninhabited because it is covered by lush mangrove forests. There are parts of the island that humans aren’t allowed on and that is pretty cool.

We arrived at San Gervasio, which didn’t initially look like much. Edwin gave us our tickets and we headed in. There is a very pretty little courtyard at the entrance. There are some fountains, a small restaurant and a few shops selling mostly jewelry and native crafts. Edwin was leading our tour and wanted to get us in before larger tour groups came through, so there wasn’t really a chance to look around. He did point out the people offering to spray visitors with bug spray for $1 each. I thought this was a bit strange…until I got into the ruins and got more than my share of bug bites. We went in December when Edwin said the bugs weren’t too bad. I cannot imagine what it would have been like had it been June! If you ever visit the ruins, either bring bug spray OR pay the $1. It would have been money well spent and it is my only regret from my day in Cozumel.

The ruins themselves are interesting. They aren’t as complete or elaborate as the other ruins I visited in Mexico, but this was a much smaller Mayan settlement, so that makes sense. We did see what would have been the king’s palace, the well where their water came from, the altar, the plaza, the big house, the arch, the small house, and the tall house. Of course, we only got to see a portion of the actual ruins. There are actually four “districts” that the ruins are in and only portions of one of the districts is open to the public. The ruins are also part of a wildlife sanctuary and full of iguanas and other lizards. We saw tons of small lizards roaming around the ruins.

You can watch a video of our exploration here.

My favorite part of the ruins was a structure that I think is referred to as the Murals because it used to have murals decorating its walls. Although these are no longer visible , what I liked was the really cool tree that is growing up through the stone and has burst through the thatched roof overhead. There is just something so beautiful about nature reclaiming something man made.

I also really like the Las Manitas, which was the residence of the Mayan ruler. It gets its name from the red handprints that are visible on the back wall of the structure. Originally it was an outer room that served as the ruler’s home and an inner sanctum reserved for his personal shrine. Visitors can still make out the two different areas and it’s pretty cool.

Another really cool part of the ruins is the original stone road that runs through it. Edwin told us that the road actually many miles not only through all of the ruins, but out into the city itself. Apparently it is about 12 miles long and there are people who try to follow it (and sometimes get lost) every year.

We also learned some cool information about why the steps on the altar are so skinny. It’s not that people’s feet used to be smaller. You were not meant to walk up the steps the way we walk up them–forward facing the top of the altar and our back toward the space we left. Instead, you were supposed to walk up them sideways (and at an angle) so that you would always be facing where you were going as well as never turning your back on where you’d been. For the Mayans, it was a sign of respect. When walked the correct way, one foot perfectly fits the steps.

Despite visiting during the “cold” season, it was still in the mid-80’s and since the ruins are largely unshaded, it was hot! We were all withering a bit by the end. Thankfully we got a bit of time at the end to explore the shops. The older I get, the less I want to fill my house with little objects de art, so I don’t really buy souvenirs much. I skipped the stores and went straight for the small restaurant. I needed some more bottled water (we’d exhausted the two bottles we brought in with us). On our arrival, Edwin had mentioned that if we were looking for some authentic Mexican tacos that the restaurant’s were great.

Now, it wasn’t much of a restaurant. It was open-air with a roof to shade the five or six tables, cooler with drinks, and small counter to order from. There were only two people working. One took orders and one made tacos on a small griddle-like cooking service right behind the counter. The choice was chicken, pork, or the special. I figured I had to go for the special. It turned out to be a combo of egg and pork with some pico-like veggies on top. You could get one taco or three. My son and I were the only adventurous ones in our group. I added some of the green tomatillo sauce to mine and he ate his two just the way they came. They were absolutely delicious and if you get a chance to visit San Gervasio, I suggest you try them.

Heat and bugs aside, this was a great excursion and I cannot recommend it enough. My family learned so much, we got some wonderful pictures, and got to try some truly delicious food.

Oh, and while I was in the restroom, the rest of my family ran into a man with a GIANT bird who was offering to let people take pictures with it for a small fee. Both of my kids had to do it, so my husband paid the fee and our kids got to play with the bird. I am not really a bird fan, but my kids adored it and love to talk about their friend the parrot.

If you are looking for a truly fantastic shore excursion in Cozumel, I highly recommend the Mayan ruins and Mayan Cacao Company combination.

Tracing Mayan Tradition and Culture

It is believed that the Maya people settled in Cozumel toward the early part of the first millennium AD. Many of these indigenous people still live in Central America and Mexico today, however, Classic Maya civilization the likes of which dominated this land back in ancient times disappeared toward 900 AD. The exact reasons for this demise are not clearly known although it appears that it was due to a significant environmental change such as a drought. The Mayan culture is fascinating: Not only did they devise a complex calendar, but they were the only people from the Stone Age that developed a writing system from their spoken language. They also excelled in mathematics, skills that surely helped them in building their distinctive, stepped pyramids, palaces and plazas. And as you may have heard, the Maya practiced human sacrifice, rituals that thankfully died out (couldn’t help that pun) along ages ago. (Thank God for that!)

You can learn much about the Mayan culture inland on Cozumel. Some of the best Mayan ruins on the island are at San Gervasio, an archeological site located within the interior of the northern part of the island. A visit here is worthwhile for those interested in finding out more about the Mayan culture and traditions and also for those that want to visit an altar used in the sacrificial ceremonies. (Yikes!) Run by the National Institute of Anthropology and History, this National Monument also serves as a wildlife refuge. Inhabited by many types of endemic birds and lizards, the iguana are among the friendliest. As you can imagine, they go well with the landscape.

For an exhilarating visit to Mayan vestiges, take an excursion with Wild Tour Adventures. They’ll lead you through the mangroves and into the heart of the jungle in a cutting-edge ROV or ATV. This is a great way to experience the richness of the Cozumel interior or shore while finding out more about the island’s history.

Highly revered within the Mayan culture, bees were treaty as deity. Honey possesses a swarm of special properties, most of which promote healing and good nutrition. The Mayan beekeeping tradition of meliponiculture is thriving in Cozumel and especially at the Mayan Bee Sanctuary where you can learn all about it. Best of all: These bees do not have stingers, so they are very special buzzing beings. One of the best parts of this place is its gift shop. Here, you can delight in many different kinds of honey as well as a a variety of other gift ideas relating to bees and their hives.

Apparently the Maya indulged as much as possible in the good stuff, including chocolate. In fact the origins of our beloved chocolate of today may be traced directly back to the Mayan culture. This is the part of the world where cacao beans flourish and the Maya found out quickly what an intoxicating drink chocolate could be. Yes, that’s right during the Maya civilization, chocolate was often consumed as a fiery drink. It was reserved for the elite–mostly priests and emperors-some of whom downed this spicy elixir before heading out to battle, or at least before venturing into the harem (for some). At one point, cacao beans were even used as currency. Find out all about this rich history of chocolate at The Mayan Cacao Factory, a colorful place to visit that showcases many interactive exhibits and the possibility to taste and buy chocolate in a variety of forms. You can also do a chocolate tour at Kaokao Chocolate Factory.

A visit to Punta Sur Eco Beach is a great way to combine outdoor activities with history. Also known as the Faro Celerain Eco Park, this sprawling eco park in south Cozumel is home to all kinds of exotic birds, sea turtles, crocodiles and more. It’s a must for wildlife lovers as well as those curious about the pirate and corsair doings in these parts throughout the centuries. These tales are told in a museum within the park that also traces the history of the Maya people. It’s a great way to combine nature and culture. There’s even a tall lighthouse with an amazing view. And guess what? You can take a catamaran tour here as well. Cool beans. Cool cacao beans that would be.

Tag Archives: Mayan ruins

You can watch a video of our exploration here.

Heat and bugs aside, this was a great excursion and I cannot recommend it enough. My family learned so much, we got some wonderful pictures, and got to try some truly delicious food.

If you are looking for a truly fantastic shore excursion in Cozumel, I highly recommend the Mayan ruins and Mayan Cacao Company combination.